Heat Transfer Paper - Inkjet Printer
Laser Paper versus Inkjet Paper?
Inkjet printers have a higher quality print than laser printers with a larger selection of heat transfer papers to choose from. The options range from papers that excel in soft hand, less border, great color, and more. Inkjet printers are also easy to set up and use, and the transfer papers for inkjet printers are more universal; most transfer papers for inkjet will run in almost any home or office printers.

Laser printers, on the other hand, are more cost efficient and can print at high speeds when printing hundreds or thousands of transfers at a time. Laser printers are also able to print self-weeding transfers, but there are no self-weeding transfers available yet for inkjet printers. And while the durability between inkjet and laser prints are generally about the same, because laser printers have toner rather than ink, laser transfer does offer the advantage that there will be no risk of bleeding from the transfer in the wash.

When choosing the printer type for your heat transfer business, always decide what is most important for your situation and test any paper before use. We sell 'Try Me' packs of almost all our transfer papers to allow our customers the chance to find the paper that works best for them. Regardless of the type of paper you choose to go with, all of our transfer papers will ship with an instruction sheet to let you know the settings needed to properly press that particular paper, as well as any tips or tricks so that you are assured the best results.
Which inkjet printer should I use?
We do not guarantee compatibility with any particular printer but can say that inkjet transfer are rarely incompatible. You can print inkjet transfers with dye-based, sublimation or pigment inks. Pigment inks are recommended for greatest washability as they are most water resistant. Most printers come with standard due-based inks – look out for Epson printers with Durabrite inks as these are pigment-based
What ink is best to use?
There are two types of inkjet printer - dye or pigment ink. Dye ink is water-based and is more likely to bleed in the wash, whereas pigment ink is much more water fast and is more suitable for transfer printing. Pigment printers do however tend to be more expensive than a laser printer when it comes to ink cost and replenishing the consumables of the printer.
We have recently upgraded our printer to a higher spec and would like to know if you have an ICC profiles for the papers you supply?
ICC Profiles are needed for Dye Sublimation printing but not for Dye and Pigment printing. We don’t have ICC profiles for Jet-Pro® SS or 3G Jet-Opaque® as standard print settings in your graphics program will produce excellent results. Our ink jet products have been used for tens of millions of transfers since 2007 without ICC Profiles.
Which paper should I use for light and dark fabric?
There are papers designed for light or white fabrics and papers designed for dark or coloured fabrics

Papers for light fabric have a clear film (polymer) background as they don’t have to hide the colour of the fabric. This means that the lightest colour you have is the colour of your garment as it will shine through the transfer. You cannot transfer white but on a white garment, unprinted areas will appear white anyway.

JetPro SofStretch/yolo inkjet – InkJet Printers for lights designed for cotton or cotton blend fabrics. Yolo Inket is better for hand ironing but JetPro SofStretch is thinner/softer

3G Jet-Opaque/Jet Opaque II/Yolo Inkjet Opaque – inkjet papers for darks designed for cotton or cotton blend fabrics.

It is recommended that you trim or cut away unprinted areas to remove the excess film before application.
Will you send me a free sample?
You can order a 'Try Me' packs from the website. These include three sheets and one silicone sheet. They aren't free but postage is free.
What is the difference between the Jet-Pro® Sofstretch™ and yolö inkjet papers?
Jet-Pro® Sofstretch™ is manufactured by Neenah in the USA and yolö inkjet is sourced from Asia. Jet-Pro® Sofstretch™ is one of the thinnest and softest transfer papers on the market. yolö Inkjet is not just as soft but colours appear slightly more vibrant.
What is the difference between the Jet-Opaque® II, 3G Jet-Opaque® and yolö inkjet Opaque papers?
Jet-Opaque® II and 3G Jet-Opaque® are manufactured by Neenah in the USA. yolö inkjet Opaque is sourced from Asia. 3G Jet-Opaque® is the latest generation paper and is the softest of the three. It is especially recommended for 100% cotton where as Jet-Opaque® II is recommended when transferring onto cotton/polyester blends. The yolö inkjet Opaque is not just as soft as the papers from Neenah but the colours are slightly more vibrant.
Will this paper work with my inkjet printer?
Almost all inkjet printers are compatible with this paper but there are just too many models on the market for us to test. We recommend testing the paper before production or attempting to print several sheets at once.
What print settings should I use?
Our inkjet transfer papers will usually work well on normal paper and image quality setting. Experiment with print settings until you find a setting which prints the best quality image. Avoid using the best image quality settings as too much ink can cause colours to bleed.
Do I have to cut out my image?
Cutting around your image before applying is recommended as unprinted areas of the clear film may be visible on the fabric. You can cut out your image with a craft knife or scissors but contour cutting is recommended for best results. If contour cutting, set the blade to cut through the film layer only.
Why do the printed colours change after pressing?
As with all transfer papers, there will be some colour changes and unfortunately we are unable to provide specific profile information for individual printer models and inks but feedback on Epson Durabrite inks indicates that decreasing yellow by -20 and increasing magenta and cyan by +5 will improve colours so you may want to experiment using this as guidance.
When the transfer is peeled and properly cut it can be hard it's really hard to press because it starts to roll up. I tried to put a teflon sheet and press it to see if I was able to unroll the transfer, but it didn't work. What do you suggest?
When my transfer curls, I just curl it the opposite way and it seems to lay flat again. Failing that, we have heard of some success when people mist the substrate first. Mist means to lightly spray with water. Mist then press a few seconds to get out all wrinkles ... then MIST again ... press as normal. Also, you can pre-press the shirt to remove the moisture? One reason why it's curling is that the shirt may still be hot. Try and wait for it to cool down a little, about 5 to 10 seconds after pre pressing.
Can Inkjet Heat Transfer Paper be hand-ironed?
They can be hand ironed, however, some household irons are not able to reach required temperatures for this paper. Heat press application is recommended for best results as due to the lesser amount of pressure and heat, ironing on the product will not be as durable when laundered. If you intend to use a hand iron for this transfer paper then please purchase a ‘Try Me’ pack to check you are happy with the results.
Do you have any tips for using an iron to transfer the image?
When the instructions say you need a hot iron, they mean it. Make sure use an iron that can get really hot.

Print a preview. Always, always, always print a preview copy of your image before printing it on the transfer paper. Do this to ensure that colours print correctly, that your image doesn't fall into your printer's no-print zone along the margins, and to see the actual size of the design —sometimes the on-screen view can be deceiving.

Flip the image. Don't forget to flip or mirror the image. This is especially critical if you have text in your design. The text should be backward on screen and on the printout. Another good reason to print a preview copy first! Some programs can flip the image for you.

Use the right kind of transfer paper. If you have a laser printer, be sure to purchase transfer paper specifically for laser printers. Most T- shirt transfer paper is for inkjet printers. Transfer papers for white T- shirts is different from transfer paper for dark T-shirts.

Use the right side of the paper. Transfer paper has stripes or some other design on the non-printing side. Be sure to put the paper in your printer so that it prints on the clean white side. Not sure how to properly load your printer for transfer paper? Mark a plain sheet of paper then run it through to see which side comes out printed.

White does not print. In designing your artwork remember that white does not print. The fabric shows through any parts of the design that are white. For example, if you print a white ghost on plaid fabric, you get a plaid ghost. Plan your design accordingly. As with any desktop publishing project, consider the background colour when selecting colours for your designs.

Test on scrap fabric. Test your design on scrap fabric of the same type and colour before applying it to your final T-shirt or other fabric. Some types of fabric may require more ironing than others or may not show off your design as well as you expected.

Use lots of heat. Use the hottest setting on your iron but no steam. It takes a lot of heat to transfer the image evenly and completely to the fabric. Peel off the paper while it is still hot.

Use a hard surface. The reason transfer instructions specify a hard surface is because it holds the heat. Ironing boards tend to disperse the heat and the transfer paper needs to be very hot to work properly. Protect the hard surface with a pillowcase.
I have purchased a roll of inkjet, what side do I print on?
When using rolls, print on the outside surface of the roll.
Which is the best paper to use to print on to hessian/burlap?
Transfer papers are equivalent to a thin vinyl so unfortunately there are none that will work particularly well on heavily textured fabric like hessian. A thick vinyl like Glitter could work or a completely different transfer method such as screen printing.
Is it possible to transfer onto tights?
This isn't possible because the temperature of the transfer process needs to be hotter than tights could cope with.
Is it possible to layer HTP on top of heat transfer vinyl like Flexcut Sticky?
This isn't recommended and even if it adhered initially it may not stay in place after washing. Transfer papers are designed for adhesion to cotton and polyester fabrics only.
I am having problems with the colour red when i wash the t-shirt. I'm following the instructions exactly and I'm using a heat press and HP printer with original ink.
HP red ink CAN be problematic but not enough so for us not to recommend it. We suggest you go longer on the repress - 15 to 20 seconds to make sure the ink is cured. if the problem persists, you should try it with Epson or Cannon inks.
When I transfer I am getting lines in the image, why is this happening?
This is probably a printer issue because the paper or heat press wouldn’t put lines in. Does the image look ok like before you press? Have you played around with the printer settings?
  • Make sure printer is warmed up
  • Select normal print/image quality
  • Starting with a normal or plain paper setting, print one sheet of transfer paper at a time using a bypass tray if possible.
  • Gradually increase the paper weight setting (papers will usually work better on a slower paper setting e.g. heavy paper, transparency or label mode but always start with a normal paper setting and increase the paper weight setting gradually to reduce the chance of jamming) until the toner fuses well.
The quality of the print seemed very good initially, however after one wash it has not held up well at all and has cracked and flaked. Any ideas what may have gone wrong with this?
The transfer has a certain amount of stretch in it but if the fabric stretches beyond this limit then the transfer can crack. Lightly stretching the transfer after peeling can help to soften it and reduce cracking. Using a tighter weave fabric also limits the stretch of the fabric and thus reduces the chances of cracking.
When I remove the teflon sheet on the second pressing, the transfer partially peels off but it stays stuck to the sheet.
Let the transfer cool for about 90 seconds or more, get a used clean cloth gently rub the transfer using a circular motion, gently lift one corner and slowly peel, or quickly peel if you feel no resistance.
There was a successful corner on the transfer but it started peeling right after.
Make sure you place the image in the centre of the heat press where the pressure is. Make sure you apply heavy enough pressure. Try different time periods – longer, longer + repress, longer + longer repress (it can be trial an error to work out your optimum)
How bright will Phosphor 'Glow in the Dark' Inkjet Heat Transfer Paper glow and for how long?
Like all glow in the dark products, the image needs to be ‘charged’ by exposing it to light before taking it into the dark – the longer it is ‘charged’, the more it will glow.
What colour(s) of fabric can I transfer Phosphor 'Glow in the Dark' Inkjet Heat Transfer Paper onto?
This product is recommended for bright or dark coloured fabric. The transfer has an opaque (white) layer to hide the colour of the fabric.
Heat Transfer Paper - Laser Printer
Will these papers work with my laser printer?
Most of our products are tested on OKI printers and so they are the only printers warranted by the manufacturer but most other printers work also. If in doubt, consult your printer manufacturer before use. Please test this product prior to production to determine the best settings for your equipment.
Will you send me a free sample?
You can order a 'Try Me' packs from the website. These include three sheets and one silicone sheet. They aren't free but postage is free.
What print settings should I use?
Run a few sheets of blank paper through your printer to warm it up and select normal print/image quality. Starting with a normal or plain paper setting, print one sheet of transfer paper at a time using a bypass tray if possible. Gradually increase the paper weight setting until the toner fuses well and the image does not smudge. (Papers will usually work better on a slower paper setting e.g. heavy paper, transparency or label mode but always start with a normal paper setting and increase the paper weight setting gradually to reduce the chance of jamming.)
What type(s) of image can Image Clip® Laser Light and Image Clip® Laser Dark paper transfer?
Images with solid intense colours (60%+ saturation) are recommended. White or light colours will not transfer.
What type(s) of image can Image Clip® Koncert T's transfer?
This product is designed to transfer a solid white version of your image only. It does not transfer colour.
When using Techni-Print® EZP do I have to cut out my image?
Cutting around your image before applying is recommended as unprinted areas of the clear film may be visible on the fabric. You can cut out your image with a craft knife or scissors but contour cutting is recommended for best results. If contour cutting, set the blade to cut through both the film layer and backing paper.
When using Laser 1 Opaque® do I have to cut out my image?
Cutting around your image before applying is recommended as unprinted areas will appear as a white background on the fabric. You can cut out your image with a craft knife or scissors but contour cutting is recommended for best results. If contour cutting, set the blade to cut through the film layer only.
When using Image Clip® papers do I have to cut out my image?
No. These papers are designed to be 'self-weeding' which means that there is no need to cut and weed the image. Only printed areas will be transferred.
How do self-weeding papers work?
Self-weeding papers will transfer only the printed areas so there is no need to cut away (weed) excess film. The main advantage of self-weeding is the fact you don’t have to cut the image out which is especially good for text and logos. The paper detects where you have printed and transfers these areas only. Self-weeding papers work best for solid colours logos or designs. They don’t transfer pastel colours or gradients well so aren’t suitable for photographic images. You can’t transfer white as you can’t print with a standard printer
- Image Clip Laser Light – transfers colours onto light fabrics
- Image Clip Laser Dark – transfers colour onto dark fabrics
- Image Clip Koncert T’s – transfer white onto dark fabric (you print your design and it prints a white version of it)
When using Techni-Print® EZP what colour(s) of fabric can I transfer onto?
This product is recommended for white or light coloured fabric. The fabric colour shows through the clear film so you cannot transfer a colour lighter than the colour of the fabric itself.
When using Laser 1 Opaque® what colour(s) of fabric can I transfer onto?
This product is recommended for bright or dark coloured fabric. The transfer has an opaque (white) layer to hide the colour of the fabric.
My images are quite complex and so difficult to cut around and so I am often left with residual material around the design, what do you suggest?
Contour cutters like Silhouette Cameo and Portrait can cut very intricate designs or you could use our self-weeding paper - ImageClip. However, ImageClip only works with laser printers and solid blocks of colour, not photos.
When using Image Clip® Laser Light® what colour(s) of fabric can I transfer onto?
This product is recommended for white or light coloured fabric. The fabric colour may show through the image so you cannot transfer a colour lighter than the colour of the fabric itself.
When using Image Clip® Laser Dark what colour(s) of fabric can I transfer onto?
This product is recommended for bright or dark coloured fabric. The transfer has an opaque (white) layer to hide the colour of the fabric. It can work on light fabric but is more expensive than the Laser Light product and the end result won't be as soft.
Is ImageClip stretchy and therefore suitable for active wear?
Image Laser Light is exceptionally stretchy and is great for active wear. Image Clip Laser Dark is not as stretchy but it can be used depending on the design.
We're following the instructions for the Image Clip Laser Light but we are having problems with certain shades like pink - can you suggest any changes to the way we are pressing or printing?
It could be that you need to darken the pink colour. ImageClip is best suited with solid intense colours (60%+ saturation). White or light colours do not transfer well.
When using Image Clip® Koncert T's what colour(s) of fabric can I transfer onto?
This product is recommended for bright or dark coloured fabric. The transfer has an opaque (white) layer to hide the colour of the fabric.
Can these papers be hand-ironed?
Techni-Print® EZP and Laser 1 Opaque® can be hand ironed, however, some household irons are not able to reach required temperatures for this paper. Heat press application is recommended for best results as due to the lesser amount of pressure and heat, ironing on the product will not be as durable when laundered. If you intend to use a hand iron for this transfer paper then please purchase a sample pack to check you are happy with the results. Image Clip® paper are almost impossible to hand-iron as they require accurate and even heat and pressure. Using a heat press is essential.
Techni-Print® Hard Surface Laser Heat Transfer Paper - does the product have to be heated in a kiln or oven to transfer the image? Do you need special equipment for transferring onto mugs?
No, it doesn’t involve an oven but you do need a Mug Press.
Is Techni-Print® Hard Surface this product suitable for any type of mug?
Mugs are available with different coatings - we recommend asking your mug supplier if they are compatible with laser heat transfer paper. From our experience, we have found that uncoated mugs give the best results (those not designed for sublimation)
Will Techni-Print® Hard Surface work on other hard surfaces such as wood and leather?
We have tested this product on both wood and leather and have had good results. However, as there are various types of wood and leather, you may have to experiment in order to find the ideal application settings.
When using Techni-Print® Hard Surface do I have to glaze ceramic items?
Mugs can be glazed after transferring using a mug glazer or regular oven. This will increase durability. Since the image is transferred onto the mug's surface, it may be susceptible to scratches - If you are producing items subject to daily use then we would recommend a sublimation process.
When using Techni-Print® Hard Surface do I have to cut out my image?
Yes. Trim away excess transfer areas but don't cut too close to the image - leave a border around it.
When using Techni-Print® Hard Surface what colour(s) of surface can I transfer onto?
This product is recommended for white or light coloured surfaces. You cannot transfer a colour lighter than the colour of the surface itself.
Heat Transfer Vinyl
What type of fabric is FlexCut Sticky Nylon designed for?
FlexCut Sticky Nylon is designed for coated fabrics. An example of a coated fabric is Nylon. Nylon fabrics are made out of polyamide fibres which can cause issues results with adhesion. Adhesion issues are not because of the fibres themselves but because of the water-repellent coating they have received. The waterproofing coating not only repels water but also the hot melt adhesives used in standard films. FlexCut Sticky Nylon has a specifically designed low temperature hot melt adhesive and is the perfect solution to adhesion problems. An easy Is my Fabric Coated? on the fabric will tell you if you should use FlexCut Sticky Nylon.
Is it possible to layer glitter on glitter?
This isn't recommended
Is it possible to layer other types of heat transfer material onto glitter?
This isn't recommended
Adhesive Vinyl
How do I remove self-adhesive vinyl?
The best way to remove self-adhesive vinyl is to use heat. Either a hairdryer or an heatgun can be used to create temperatures of at least 200o but care must be taken not to actually melt the vinyl. It should be heated so that once softened the corner can be lifted enough to start gently peeling back at 180o and slowly removed. Never pull the film towards yourself at 90o, always peel flat along the substrate at 180o to prevent damge to the surface underneath. Once the vinyl has been removed it will probably be necesary to remove some residual adhesive.
How do I avoid air bubbles?
To avoid air bubbles it is important to remove trapped air beneath the surface of the vinyl. Whether the vinyl has been applied using a Dry Application method or a Wet Application method then this is best done by meticuously squeegeeing outwards from the centre of the graphic. It is also important when removing the application tape that this is not done too soon after the graphics have been applied and not too quickly either. For the best results work at a slow and steady pace and make sure that the application tape is pulled back at 180o instead of pulled up at 90o.
How do I avoid ‘edge curl’?
This can be a problem on self adhesive materials if it is contour cut or die cut straight after printing especially in darker coloured areas where there is the most ink output. Freshly printed graphics should be left to dry before any cutting or laminating so that the residual solvents from the ink can evaporate.

The recommended time for this 'gassing off' is 24 hours but we would recommend 72 hours if possible. The printed media should be hung vertically in a dust free area with ventilation.

If the media needs to be cut before this time then allow a minimum of 6mm border around the image and always conduct a suitability test.

It should also be noted that if the contour cutting does cross into the printed area this can contribute to excessive shrinkage of the vinyl face film when applied.

If freshly printed vinyl is cut in the printed area too soon the vinyl might shrink. Laminating too early might, depending on the amount of ink used, affect the functionality of the film (adhesive power / service life) by preventing the residual solvents from evaporating.

If the drying process of the vinyl takes place after application to the substrate the vinyl will probably shrink and come away at the edges.
The vinyl is not cutting all the way through?
  • The blade is dull or chipped
  • Improper blade extension
  • Cutting pressure is not high enough
The cut lines are not complete?
  • The cutting strip is damaged and needs replacing
  • The blade is dull or chipped
  • The cutting speed is set too slow
  • The blade holder needs to be replaced
How do I cut circles correctly?
  • Incorrect blade offset (see Curved Corners below)
  • Change the font to a Sans Serif font as Serif fonts have sharp angled corners
How do I avoid vinyl lifting while cutting?
  • Increase blade extension as it may be dragging through the adhesive
  • Replace the blade with a new sharp one to ensure that it can cut through cleanly
  • Use a blade with a higher angle as low angle blades may not cut the adhesive effectively
How do I make sure my corners are square?
Ensure the offset setting has been adjusted to match the blade.
How do I avoid the vinyl not releasing from its backing liner?
It is sometimes easy to assume that the application tape is too low tack to remove the cut and weeded text / graphics however this rarely the case.

More often than not the reason for this problem comes down to excessive cutting blade pressure which scores into the backing liner. The best way of checking is by peeling back some cut graphics and checking that the blade has only just marked the backing liner and that there is no scoring into the liner. Now check the reverse of the backing liner to check there are no visible impressions of the cut path coming through. If this is visible you need to reduce the cutting pressure incrementally and produce a number of test cuts to achieve the optimum pressure. Once this has been done the graphics should lift away easily.

The best method of removal instead of pulling the application tape away from the surface of the graphics is to turn the graphics over and remove the backing liner away from the adhesive side.
Accessories and Tools
The CD in my starter kit isn't working in my computer, what is the issue?
The disk included with the Starter Kits is a tutorial DVD so it needs to be played in a DVD player, it won’t do anything in a CD drive. The disk needs to be viewed in a DVD player or on a PC using DVD player software.
The vinyl in my Vinyl Starter Kit doesn't seem to be working very well, am I doing something wrong?
The transfer tape included is meant to be very low tack, it needs to be so you can get it back off without marking the material it is being applied to. Use the included scraper to press the tape down once it is applied and it should work as expected.
What features do the different versions of Silhouette Software come with?
Can I only use the software on one computer?
Designer edition can be installed up to three times.
I purchased the Silhouette Business Edition software from you in 2016, however, my laptop broke so I had to buy a new laptop and reinstall the software. For some reason, the business edition key that you gave me in 2016 is not working for me. Can you advise what to do?
If you purchased an upgrade software code then you need to make sure you install the previous software first. For example you would get this problem if you had a Designer Edition to Business Edition upgrade code (key) and you didn’t enter the Designer Edition code (key) first. If you check your Silhouette account page on Silhouette’s website - https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/my-account - you will be able to see all keys added to your account. Add the Designer Key first and then the Business key, and that should work. If you get an error message, please take a screenshot of the error and email it over (hello@yolo.co.uk) so we can see the error and advise further.
Are Dollar software codes converted to EURO somehow for people in the EU?
If you add a dollar card to your account the Silhouette website will give you credit in the currency you have set in your account preferences.
Does Silhouette Studio® support ICC profiles?
Silhouette Studio® doesn’t have ICC profile support, so to use ICC profiles with a Silhouette machine, you would need to use either Adobe Illustrator or a full version of Corel Draw together with the Silhouette Connect plugin. As these two packages are both professional design packages, they fully support ICC profiles so should work with your print system. You then use the Silhouette Connect plugin to output from those packages to the cutter.
Stencil Material versus Stencil Vinyl - what's the difference? Also, Is the stencil material too big to cut with a Silhouette Portrait
They are similar but you’d normally use the vinyl for fabric ink stencils and the other material for wall paint stencils. The stencil material comes on a 12 x 24 roll but you could trim it down for use on a Portrait if needed.
Is it better to use Telfon or Silcone paper when heat pressing?
Silcone is a treated parchment paper with a silicone coating on it. Teflon is a sheet made of teflon. Both are made to not stick to transfers, but its really a preference thing for most people. The silicone parchment and the teflon sheet are both used for covering the transfer when pressing so it doesn't stick to the plate of your press. Teflon sheets tend to get used more for protecting garments from scorching and for protecting the heat press itself. Alot of people prefer the teflon sheet as they don't wear out. The Silicone sheet is disposable while teflon can be reused multiple times. Caution about using teflon or silicone sheets, the image is not supposed to stick to this material but sometimes it does. Especially when the surface or the coating are worn out. If you are not careful the faint trace of the image can be transferred to another shirt. Silicone sheet is disposable while teflon can be reused multiple times. Just keep an eye on the faint image sticking to it and wipe it off if possible.
Tee Square It! Centre Graphic Alignment Tool - which version do you sell?
We sell version 3.
Do Silhouette pens work on plastics ?
The tips are ball point so they won’t write properly on plastic. We don’t have a list of materials but they will write on the same materials as most ball point pens, so most paper, card & fabrics should be fine.
Overview of the Pen Holder...
The Pen Holder includes a main body, a cap (for precise pen tip placement), and three adapters for various pen body sizes (small, medium, and large). The Pen Holder is compatible with a range of smaller pens (such as standard cylindrical and hexigonal shaped pens) up to a basic-sized felt-tip pen type (such as a Sharpie®).
How does the Pen Holder work?
The following steps can be taken to use various pens in the Pen Holder.

1. (If needed) Remove the current pen holder adapter from the body​
2. Place the needed pen holder adapter (small/blue, medium/white, or large/grey) into the Pen Holder body to match the desired pen size
3. Place your pen into the Pen Holder
4. Tighten the pen holder adapter (collett) by twisting clockwise until the pen is tightly in place
5. Remove the pen guide cap (which is in place to ensure the pen tip is set to protrude the proper distance; the tip of the pen should appear where the end of the cap was once the cap is removed)
6. Place the pen holder into the Silhouette
7. Turn the Silhouette's lock lever to the right to lock it into place
When do you use transfer tape?
When using vinyl and looking to transfer cut-out designs onto a wall or other smooth surface, transfer paper is strongly recommended. Transfer paper is used to transfer vinyl images from the vinyl's backing onto the desired wall or other surface without having to manually remove each cut-out vinyl piece by hand and try to align them perfectly.
How do you use transfer tape?
Once you have vinyl and transfer paper, you may proceed with the following steps:
1. Cut the vinyl design with the Silhouette
2. Weed (or peel) away excess vinyl that is not part of the design
3. Place the transfer paper over the vinyl image
4. Rub firmly over the top of the transfer paper
5. Carefully remove the backing from the vinyl, exposing the vinyl's adhesive while leaving the transfer paper in place
6. Place the design onto the desired surface
7. Press down firmly with a flat-edged tool (such as the Scrapper Tool) over the entire design to affix it to the intended surface
8. Peel away the transfer paper

As the transfer paper is peeled away, the vinyl design will stay in place.
Equipment
How does the Silhouette Portrait 2 differ from the previous Portrait model?
The Portrait 2 has several new features and updates from previous Portrait models. Among the updated features are the following:
  • Newly designed all-white machine body
  • AutoBlade compatible (included with purchase) to allow automated adjustment of your blade during cut job processing -- No more worrying about manually adjusting your blade. The Portrait 2 will do it for you!
  • Deeper cutting ability of up to 2mm depth (requires Deep Cut Blade - sold separately)
  • Ability to communicate wirelessly via Bluetooth® (Bluetooth adapter included with models sold in the US, Canada, and select regions of Europe)
  • All consumables offered for previous Portrait and other Silhouette cutting machine models are compatible with the Portrait 2. This would include all blade types, sketch pens, and Portrait cutting mats.
How does the Cameo 3 differ from previous Cameo models?
The CAMEO 3 has several new features and updates from previous CAMEO models. Among the updated feature are the following:
  • Newly designed machine body and touchscreen interface
  • Dual carriage to hold multiple tools for faster job processing (i.e. cut with a blade and sketch with a pen during the same job)
  • AutoBlade compatible (included with purchase) to allow automated adjustment of your blade during cut job processsing -- No more worrying about manually adjusting your blade! The CAMEO 3 will do it for you.
  • Deeper cutting ability of up to 2mm depth (requires Deep Cut Blade -- CAMEO 3 is now compatible with the deep cut blade whereas previous CAMEO models are not)
  • Easier to adjust pinch rollers and adjustable spring rollers
  • Ability to communicate wirelessly via Bluetooth® (Bluetooth adapter included with models sold in the US, Canada, and select regions of Europe)
  • All consumables offered for previous CAMEO and other Silhouette cutting machine models are compatible with the CAMEO 3. This would include all blades, sketch pens, and cutting mats.
What's the difference between a Portrait 2 and a Cameo 3?
The Silhouette Portrait 2 and CAMEO 3 models are two different machines offered by Silhouette America®.

The main difference is in size. The Silhouette Cameo has a wider cutting area (12 inches maximum) compared to the Silhouette Portrait model (8 inch maximum).

Both the CAMEO 3 and Portrait 2 models offer the following:
  • AutoBlade compatible (included with purchase) to allow automated adjustment of your blade during cut job processing -- No more worrying about manually adjusting your blade! The Portrait 2 will do it for you.
  • Deeper cutting ability of up to 2mm depth (requires Deep Cut Blade)
  • Ability to communicate wirelessly via Bluetooth® (Bluetooth adapter included with models sold in the US, Canada, and select regions of Europe)
  • An optical scanner for print & cut applications
  • Compatible with Silhouette Studio® allowing you to cut fonts and images from your PC or Mac®
  • Matless cutting option for adhesive-backed materials
  • Both models offer the same capabilities to cut the same material types (vinyl, paper, cardstock, fabric, etc)

The CAMEO 3 offers the following features which the Portrait 2 does not:
  • 12" width cutting area (with the ability cut an actual 12 inch rather than a 11.5 inch cutting area like other comparable machines)
  • Dual carriage to hold multiple tools for faster job processing (i.e. cut with a blade and sketch with a pen during the same job)
  • Adjustable pinch rollers and adjustable spring rollers to better secure loaded materials
  • USB slot to read and cut specially formatted files directly from a USB drive without being hooked up to a computer
  • LCD Touchscreen
Note: The above features may not be included with older CAMEO or Portrait models.
What materials can the Silhouette Portrait® cut?
The Silhouette is designed to cut a variety of materials including vinyl, paper, specialty patterned papers, cardstock, vellum, iron-on heat transfer material, fabric (when using Silhouette Interfacing products) and sticker paper. It will also cut a variety of other specialty materials. The Silhouette has a cutting force of 210gf and includes a blade that can extend to approximately 1mm in depth when using the standard blade.

However, there is still a limitation depending on the material type's density and make up. Certain materials that are overly dense (such as thin metals, acrylic or acetate, for example) may not be able to be cut well or at all and can impair the blade. On dense materials such as mylar, doflex and plasticard you are limited to around 120 micron with the Silhouette machines due to the density of the material – any thicker than this and the blade will not be able to completely penetrate the media. Certain materials that have abrasive natures (such as thicker chipboard or sandpaper) may also impair the blade or dull it very quickly. On the other side of the spectrum, certain fibrous materials (such as select felt materials or handmade papers) may not be held together densely enough for successful cutting.

Testing can be performed on special material types to find whether or not they can be cut successfully by using the Test Cut feature.
What materials can the Silhouette Cameo® cut?
The Silhouette is designed to cut a variety of materials including vinyl, paper, specialty patterned papers, cardstock, vellum, iron-on heat transfer material, fabric (when using Silhouette Interfacing products) and sticker paper. It will also cut a variety of other specialty materials. The Silhouette has a cutting force of 210gf and includes a blade that can extend to approximately 1mm in depth when using the standard blade. However, there is still a limitation depending on the material type's density and make up. Certain materials that are overly dense (such as thin metals, acrylic or acetate, for example) may not be able to be cut well or at all and can impair the blade. On dense materials such as mylar, doflex and plasticard you are limited to around 120 micron with the Silhouette machines due to the density of the material – any thicker than this and the blade will not be able to completely penetrate the media. Certain materials that have abrasive natures (such as thicker chipboard or sandpaper) may also impair the blade or dull it very quickly. On the other side of the spectrum, certain fibrous materials (such as select felt materials or handmade papers) may not be held together densely enough for successful cutting. Testing can be performed on special material types to find whether or not they can be cut successfully by using the Test Cut feature.
What materials can the Silhouette Curio™ cut?
The Silhouette is designed to cut a variety of materials including vinyl, paper, specialty patterned papers, cardstock, vellum, iron-on heat transfer material, fabric (when using Silhouette Interfacing products) and sticker paper. It will also cut a variety of other specialty materials. The Silhouette has a cutting force of 210gf and includes a blade that can extend to approximately 1mm in depth when using the standard blade, or up to 2 mm in depth when using the Deep Cut Blade to accommodate thicker material types.

However, there is still a limitation depending on the material type's density and make up. Certain materials that are overly dense (such as thin metals, acrylic or acetate, for example) may not be able to be cut well or at all and can impair the blade. On dense materials such as mylar, doflex and plasticard you are limited to around 120 micron with the Silhouette machines due to the density of the material – any thicker than this and the blade will not be able to completely penetrate the media. Certain materials that have abrasive natures (such as thicker chipboard or sandpaper) may also impair the blade or dull it very quickly. On the other side of the spectrum, certain fibrous materials (such as select felt materials or handmade papers) may not be held together densely enough for successful cutting.

Testing can be performed on special material types to find whether or not they can be cut successfully by using the Test Cut feature.
What material sizes can the machines work with?
Though there are standard pre-defined material sizes in the Silhouette program (such as 8.5 x 11 Letter size and A4 size), you can define custom user paper sizes with the Silhouette Studio® software to fit the media type and size you're working with providing the material size is allowed by the scope of what the Silhouette can handle.

The Silhouette CAMEO® has adjustable pinch rollers to control the material width allowance with pre-set roller settings for A4 width, Letter width, 12 inch material width, and 13 inch width (in order to grip the 12x12 inch cutting mat). It cannot accept any materials with a width exceeding a 13 inch path.

The Silhouette Portrait® has pinch rollers set to accept A4 and Letter size materials, as well as the standard Letter size cutting mat (which may be used for A4 size materials as well). The pinch rollers on this model are not adjustable. It cannot accept any materials with a width exceeding a 9 inch path.

When cutting longer materials that have their own adhesive backing (such as adhesive-backed vinyl), you may cut lengths of up to 10 feet so long as the material is wide enough to be gripped by the pinch rollers.

Materials that are smaller than the width of the pinch rollers would require the use of a cutting mat to hold the material in place properly during the cutting process. If such is the case, the maximum length of the material could not exceed that of the cutting mat (12 inch maximum length for the CAMEO when using the 12x12 mat or 24 inch maximum length when using the 12x24 mat; 12 inch maximum length for the Portrait).

The smallest recommended size of material would be at least 3 inches width by 3 inches length (which would require the use of a mat as they are not wide enough to be gripped by the pinch rollers).
When using Silhouette Cameo® 3, must I use the AutoBlade?
The existing Silhouette Standard, Premium and Deep Cut blades are also compatible with the Silhouette Cameo® 3 but you will have to manually adjust the blade settings as the Silhouette Cameo® 3 can only automatically adjust the AutoBlade.
Can I use Silhouette Cameo® 3 with a tablet such as an iPad?
Yes, Silhouette Studio® Mobile allows you to create and send images to a Silhouette machine using a tablet, It is available to download here.
Do Silhouette machines come with a warranty?
The Silhouette machines all have a 2 year return-to-base warranty.
Can the Silhouette Cameo and Portrait machines cut 190 micron Mylar?
No, they can cut up to 120 micron but any more than that will be too much to get the blade through due to the mylar being so dense.
When I cut A4 with my Silhouette Portrait, I can’t get it to cut right to the edge - it always leave around 2 inches at the bottom of the sheet.
This is normally because the cutting mat is not selected in the software. There will always be a 10 mm margin around the edge, even with a mat selected, but when there is no cutting mat selected it adds an extra 50 mm margin at the bottom of the page so that the media doesn’t roll out of the rollers.

Check if you have a cutting mat selected and make sure you have the page size set to A4 because the software defaults to Letter format and if that is used it will also reduce the available page length.
I'd like my Silhouette Cameo to cut around a design on my paper/vinyl, can it do that? Let's say I'd like to cut out a smiley face, but so that I wouldn't need to weed around it, when it comes out of the cutter, can I just lift the round shape of the mat?
If you use the cut by colour option in the Silhouette software you can create two different cut settings and assign them to different parts of the design. Let’s say for example, blue lines use a blade of 1 with a force of 7 to cut the design out, and red lines use blade 1 and force 18 to cut all the way through. It would take a bit of tweaking to get the setting spot on but it is possible.

In terms of blades, there are two ways of doing it, you can use a single auto-blade and assign a different preset to each colour, the blade will then change itself between colours. Alternatively, you can use two blades, one in each blade slot and assign a blade to each colour - if you are doing it this way you can use any type of blade but we would recommend you use a premium blade because they give the most adjustment for fine tuning. We prefer to use the two blade method but both will work.
What is track enhancing?
Track enhacing is a feature that moves the mat or other material back and forth through the Silhouette prior to the actual cutting process.

As material thickness increases, the rollers (dependent upon the material type and surface) may not grip as firmly on the material's surface during operation. In such cases, it may be recommended to enable the Track Enhancing option. The action of feeding the material through the Silhouette several times prior to operation creates a "track" for the Silhouette to roll on and gain a better grip during the job in question. The feature attempts to ensure proper alignment of secondary passes performed and attempts to resolve potential mis-alignment concerns.

This option is only needed when cutting thicker materials where the material appears to be slipping during the cutting action, or when there is mis-alignment when using the "Double Cut" option.

The Track Enhancing feature is something built into the Silhouette unit which can be controlled through the software (in the Silhouette Cut Settings screen) OR via the Silhouette's LCD screen when cutting directly from an SD card (Silhouette CAMEO model only).
Do Silhouette machines come with a warranty?
The Silhouette machines all have a 2 year return-to-base warranty.
What are the exact dimension of the different machines?
The Silhouette CAMEO® measurements are:
  • Width: 21 inches
  • Height: 5.5 inches (allow 9.5 for open lid)
  • Depth: 6.5 inches (allow 14 inch clearance in front and back to accommodate material feed-through)
  • Weight: 5.5 lbs

The Silhouette Portrait® measurements are:
  • Width: 16.25 inches
  • Height: 4.5 inches
  • Depth: 5.6 inches
  • Weight: 3.5 lbs

The Silhouette Curio® measurements are:
  • Width: 17.25 inches
  • Height: 5.25 inches (allow 9.5 for open lid)
  • Depth: 6.75 inches (allow 13.5 inch clearance in front and back to accommodate material feed-through)
  • Weight: 5.5 lbs